Sylt Country Life Course Spring

Text: Julia Petersen

Experience has shown that Sylt farmers prefer peace and quiet and have little time for unnecessary chatter. They work outdoors, focused on what needs to be done, without much fuss – deeply connected to nature.

How closely islander Bleicke Andersen is intertwined with the Sylt landscape becomes clear on that Wednesday afternoon. Under a bright sun, he drives his tractor westward from the yard of the Sylt country butcher shop in Keitum to a snow-covered meadow. There, the Andersen family's Galloway herd is currently overwintering until the flooded salt marshes are dry enough again. The herd book breeding program owes its name to these marshes: "Von Sylter Salzwiesen" (From Sylt Salt Marshes), whose roots lie in Shankend Farm Cottage, Hawick, Roxburghshire in southwest Scotland.

Together with his brother Theide, who is responsible for the culinary side of things, and their father Sönke Andersen, the initiator and ever-present contributor, Bleicke runs the family business "Sylter Landschlachterei" (Sylt Country Butcher Shop) in its third generation. The Andersens passionately care for their Galloway cattle with their dark, curly, double coats. Their water-repellent outer coat with insulating undercoat and their robust build ensure that they can easily withstand the harsh North Sea climate and live outdoors year-round.

“We make sure our animals have dry ground under their hooves and can shelter from the wind,” Bleicke explains, affectionately scratching a mother cow’s back. She clearly enjoys the attention, as well as the dry bread rolls he brought in a blue bag today. The entire herd has now gathered closely around him. But there’s no sign of fear or panic. Bleicke remains calm and grounded. He knows his animals intimately and knows how to move among them.

At least twice a day, especially in freezing temperatures, the farmer from Keitum checks on them, thrashes the frozen water trough, and provides the pregnant cows with hay. In spring, they await their calves, their bellies already round. That calving takes place outdoors is part of the Andersens' breeding philosophy. They ensure that the Galloways lead a stress-free and happy life and that the mother cow husbandry is carried out in the most natural way possible. For the family, this is the foundation for meat they can stand behind with a clear conscience.

That Bleicke would one day join the family business full-time was not originally planned. However, when the opportunity arose, he traded his typical office job in Hamburg for life in the Sylt countryside. Today, the father of two is responsible for administrative tasks, among other things. With him as another voice in management and with his open manner, the business has developed strategically. What does he particularly enjoy about working with the animals? 

"The great thing is that you get away from everyday life. You don't have the chance to get stressed, otherwise you've lost. Here I can find wonderful peace and quiet."

Although business is somewhat slower in winter compared to summer, the farm shop at Bäderstraße 2 in Keitum is still open for you from Monday to Saturday. Not currently on Sylt? Then a visit to... Online shop! 

It's rare to catch a glimpse of Jens Volquardsen, because there's always something going on. And although he exudes a deep sense of calm, he's usually busy juggling work and family life. His favorite place, however, is out in the fields – or on the world's surfable waves. The latter are few and far between during the Sylt winter. Even the lamb's lettuce harvest is considerably more abundant during these cold months. So, this second-generation Sylt farmer channels his energy into the family's organic farm, "Strawberry Paradise," in Braderup. Everything that comes from the fields to the farm shop is organic. Since 1989, the Volquardsen family has adhered to the strict guidelines and structured their entire farm life accordingly. With their homegrown organic fruits and vegetables, they are the only ones on Sylt. Jens' parents, Bettina and Eckehard, started by growing Sylt strawberries and have continuously expanded their product range and expertise.

Although the delicious Sylt strawberry, which grows in early summer surrounded by salty North Sea air among violets and chamomile, no longer plays the main role, it remains the proud namesake of the farm and still occupies its own field. The young plants are already clearly visible, and one can imagine the juicy, sweet splendor that will soon flourish here.

“We’ve scaled back our operations a bit at the moment, but we’ve already planted and sown a lot. I’m also planning several projects to support agriculture in the island community,” says Jens, who is constantly expanding his knowledge about cultivation. One of his favorite topics for some time now has been syntropic agriculture. Contrary to what one might assume, this has nothing to do with synthetic palm trees. Rather, it’s a regenerative agroforestry system, largely developed by Ernst Götsch, that mimics natural forest processes to grow vegetables and other crops. “The basic idea is that land regenerates through use,” explains Jens, bending over to cut fresh purslane, which he carefully places in a green basket. A little later, it will be added to the farm shop’s selection of carrots, Lund sourdough bread, strawberry jam, and other products.

Together with his sister Rieke, he follows in his parents' footsteps and brings his own ideas to farm life. Bettina is not only a farmer, but also an organist and Feldenkrais expert. Daughter-in-law Katharina teaches yoga and breathwork. Together, yet each in her own way, they pursue one goal: to further develop agriculture in harmony with nature, community, and responsibility.

The Volquardsens are not currently at the weekly market with their stall. However, you are very welcome to visit their farm shop in Braderup and make some purchases there. It is open on Tuesdays and Fridays.