Culinary Tour No. 2

The Klappi Gourmet Tour No. 2

The uncomplicated and enjoyable Sylt bike tour: This time from Rantum to Hörnum and back.

After the first folding bike tour , which took me through Westerland, Keitum, and Munkmarsch to Wenningstedt-Braderup, this time I'm heading south on the island. My vintage folding bike from the 70s and I start in Rantum and cycle to Hörnum , naturally not without a culinary stop or two along the way. My strategy for today: several small courses rather than one large meal, and simply going with the flow. This way, my own menu is created along the way. The weather is cooperating. Lightly cloudy, hardly any wind, and the sun even peeks out now and then. Pretty perfect conditions when you're traveling without an electric motor and relying solely on your own muscle power.

Starting with cappuccino

The tour starts at 11 a.m. at Rantum harbor. Way in the back, by the coffee roastery, they've been roasting fresh coffee weekly for ten years, and I'm starting with a (decaf) cappuccino. Depending on the weather, you can sit outside or get cozy inside. Convenient for planning your trip: it's open daily. I really like this slightly off-the-beaten-path location. Next door at Harbor 9 , you can go on a treasure hunt. There you'll find art, handmade pennants, and secondhand fashion.

For me, coffee is enough at the moment. But if you're already hungry, you'll also find homemade Florentines, cakes, and pastries here. A wonderful addition to the coffee roastery since this summer is Café do Brasil at Sylt Quelle. Here you can get Brazilian specialties, including espresso from a portafilter machine, and browse the Coco & James concept store . It's funny that we already encountered both businesses on our first Klappi culinary tour last year in Braderup; now they've both moved to Sylt Quelle in Rantum. You can read the whole story here.

Before heading south, I take a short detour to the Rantum Basin, cycle up onto the dike, and enjoy the view over the harbor. The boats lie peacefully in the water, waiting for their next trip, and a few people are out walking their dogs. After the stormy and intermittently wet days we've had, today's weather feels like a wonderful gift. I've still got my rain poncho with me, along with a water bottle. You never know what might happen on Sylt. And if a heavier downpour does occur, the thatched bus stops make surprisingly good, impromptu shelters. If you get completely fed up with pedaling, you can always hop on the bus. My folding bike should travel for free, but I generally recommend checking the Sylt Transport Company's (SVG) current regulations for taking your bike on the bus beforehand . According to their website, the Deutschlandticket (Germany Ticket) is also valid on all SVG buses without restrictions.

At Hus in Lee, traditional dishes meet creative ideas, a modern lifestyle and relaxed ease.

Julia Petersen

First course: Hus in Lee

My second culinary stop is in the southernmost part of Rantum: Hus in Lee . I'd actually never been there before, even though it's been on my list for ages. They serve food from noon onwards, so the timing was pretty perfect. " Hus in Lee " means something like "house in the lee." And that's exactly where the pretty thatched-roof house is located: sheltered behind the dunes. Parasols and beach chairs await in the large garden, along with a view of the Wadden Sea. Very idyllic. At the beginning of 2025, Leon Blume and his partner Clemens Maiwald took over the reins from his father. Since then, the two have breathed new life into the place without sacrificing its character. Traditional dishes meet creative ideas, a modern lifestyle, and relaxed ease. The extensive wine selection remains, as does the warm hospitality. The menu also includes waffles, cakes, and all sorts of sweets, but my meal plan is for something savory to start with. I opt for vegetarian avocado ceviche and tuna tataki. There's sourdough bread with delicious butter, which varies each time, and a non-alcoholic Martini Floreale. Everything tastes absolutely divine and provides a pretty good foundation for the hike to Hörnum.

Along the mudflats heading south

There are two options for the route: the paved footpath and cycle path directly alongside the road, or the gravel path closer to the mudflats. I choose the latter and am delighted by the breathtaking view: Wadden Sea, green salt marshes, and heathland stretch out to my right and left. Every now and then, I hop off my bike to take photos and simply soak in this incredibly green landscape. I briefly consider stopping at Samoa or Sansibar for a tea or a strawberry punch, just for a short break. But I continue cycling. A decision I'll later regret, as the journey with my folding bike takes longer than expected. If you also choose the gravel path along the mudflats, be sure to keep an eye out for the turnoff to the beach restaurants. I (justifiably) got a little distracted and unfortunately cycled right past it. Yes, even native locals can make that mistake.

Hörnum, matcha and a touch of South Seas feeling

My route takes me straight to Hörnum harbor, past the Wadden Sea Conservation Station (absolutely worth a visit if you're interested in Sylt's flora and fauna), and Salty Elements with its fashion and all sorts of beautiful things. The next stop is Sydhavn . It's quite lively here. I order a matcha from Justin, sit down on the seawall, and gaze out at the sea on the east beach. Incidentally, there's a flea market here at Hörnum harbor on Sundays where you can find all sorts of knick-knacks and treasures. Hörnum always feels a bit different to me than the rest of the island. The water is calm, not a big wave in sight, and somehow even the climate seems different. "Hörnum, the sunny south" is certainly fitting again today. I briefly consider a Kinder chocolate bar crêpe. Or maybe Kaiserschmarrn at Kap-Horn . My next little treat will be an almond croissant (and a coconut macaroon for when I might have it, I just had to have it) from Lund , followed by a stroll through the magical Hörnum woods right by the lighthouse. Anyone who fancies something savory could instead grab a fish sandwich or some Sylt mussels at the harbor.

My new favorite picnic spot?

During my walk through the small woods, I discover a spot where I immediately want to stay. Straight ahead are trees, to the left the Hörnum lighthouse, to the right a dune landscape, and beyond that, the Kersig housing estate . This uniformly planned collection of small thatched-roof houses dates back to the 1960s and blends so idyllically into the Hörnum landscape that it's often compared to a small "Auenland" (a small, idyllic village). It's certainly lovely to look at. And to live there? That would be a dream, of course. I take a break, enjoy the sun, and above all, the peace and quiet. One of those moments that makes this bike ride especially worthwhile.

Fish tacos with a North Sea view

I could easily spend a few more hours in Hörnum. A Cosmopolitan at the Budersand Bar , plaice at Kap-Horn, or a walk around the Odde peninsula. There are so many options. It all depends on your budget, appetite, and time. Some places are closed today, so it might be worth checking beforehand who's open.

Today, also a first for me, I'm going to... Countryside Up on the dune. From here I have a fantastic view over the North Sea and sit sheltered from the wind behind the window. Suddenly it feels a bit like high summer again. We love it! This menu is also very creative. At lunchtime, there are tapas to share, seafood, and vegetarian creations, among other things; generally, the Landfein cuisine is based on the season and region and interprets its dishes sometimes Nordic, sometimes classic, sometimes modern. Several things appeal to me, but today I'm in the mood for fish: I'll have battered fish tacos with guacamole and spicy sriracha sauce. With that, a glass of Crémant and Sylt water. This is treated here and served in carafes. A concept I really like, especially because... Sylt tap water According to measurements, it's very good. Sylt has its own freshwater lenses beneath the geest core and is therefore self-sufficient. It's always impressive what nature comes up with.
After dinner, I enjoy the late summer beach atmosphere a little longer. A few beach chairs are still standing in the sand, the North Sea is surprisingly calm today and invites me for another swim.

There's still a passage waiting on the way back.

Refreshed, quite happy, and with music in my ears, I head back towards Rantum. And once again the question arises: Zanzibar, Samoa? Both have been integral to Sylt for me since childhood, and I've never been disappointed by their cuisine. I can wholeheartedly recommend them. Today, however, I want to try something different and end up at Taatjem Deel . There's no sea view here, but there's another creative menu and very friendly service. The navy blue wooden house is nestled behind the dunes, and inside and out, it's colorful, relaxed, and has a bit of an Ibiza vibe. The decision isn't easy here either. Caramelized burrata, lobster pasta, or spicy sweet potato and coconut cream? I choose the latter, topped with a king prawn and accompanied by a non-alcoholic Aperol Spritz. Here, too, I'm served truly delicious sourdough bread. It seems sourdough has finally arrived in various Sylt restaurants and is giving classic Frisian bread a run for its money. I like the trend.

There's plenty going on at Taatjem Deel. Besides the regular menu, there's a separate brunch menu, and every now and then on Sundays they host "Brunch & Boogie" events with music, drinks, and brunch dishes. You can feel the creativity in this lovingly decorated place. It's one of those places where, as you leave, you already think: I want to come back here.

A dessert at Taatjem Deel would certainly be possible right now. But I have other plans. My Hörnum coconut macaroon is still waiting for me. So, for the last course of the day, it's straight to the beach. I park my folding bike, sit down in the sand, unpack my coconut macaroon, and let this pretty much perfect late-summer day of indulgence come to a close. Happy, full, and with plenty of new inspiration for the next tour. Because after folding bike gourmet tour No. 2, folding bike gourmet tour No. 3 is pretty much guaranteed.